Another area where the Power Broker is successful is enhancing imaging and the soundstage. On certain recordings I've never heard a wider and deeper soundstage than I was able to achieve with the Power Broker. At the same time the position of players in the soundstage remained rock solid up and down the frequency spectrum and in all corners of the stage. This is a place where many fine systems can fall short in a subtle way. I believe the ingenious construction of the cabling in the Power Broker, combined with the attention to resonance control, helps to keep everything in perfect phase.....
I am flummoxed..how does an AC outlet make for a wider sound stage? Mic placement in the original recording has, but an AC outlet on playback. You got to EXPLAIN this PLEASE! sounds IMPOSSIBLE. Resonance control on an AC outlet, what does that do? How does it keep what in perfect phase, can I ask, what are you talking about? The phase of the SPEAKERS are dependent on proper hookup to the amplifier, what PHASE are you considering due to an AC outlet connection. The AC supply is single phse 120V, what are you saying?
From the standpoint of Audio quality and low interference with that goal, standard AC power, even on a dedicated lines (I found this out at the house of the late Hal Broda) is full of "grunge". Here are a couple of experiments to try:
Replace your existing power cord especially on your source(CD player). Get OFC 16 gauge Zipcord. At the same time get an industrial grade 20 amp two prong plug, an outlet tester with LED lights,or a Digital Volt Meter., and a two prong "cheater". Find out in your outlet which contact wide or narrow is in correct AC polarity,(lowest voltage from outlet to chassis with Voltmeter set to 120 volt range) and mark the "hot" side(usualy the wide prong).. Take the two prong plug apart and mark the corresponding prong, if necessary, (so it always goes in the right way), mark and use the "cheater". Zip the wires apart. Mark one end of the 12 gauge wire at the source component with the writing(read from left to right) going from the source to the plug end. (Very Very important). Go to the other end of that wire and mark that..Take the other wire and reverse it if necessary so the writing goes (read right to left) from the plug back up to the source component. (no mix-ups here DON'T ASK!) Twist the two wires tightly together and hold in place with cable ties entirely to the plug end.
Strip the previously marked wire at the component end and connect it to the "hot" Power Transformer Primary connection (Sometimes there is a dot or a plus marking it). It is important to bypass the power switch here, because it adds it's own type of noise. connect the remaining new power cable connection to the remaining Power Transformer Primary connection at the source component.(Double check this) Now strip the marked plug end connection and connect it to the marked plug prong. Strip the remaining wire and connect it to the remaining plug prong.
From now on unless you have a remote, with a power button, your source could always be on. Now turn your system function switch to a different position, in case there might be a "pop", plug in the new AC Power cord and reset your system function switch.
Now for the second, a little simpler one. Get some tin foil, and an alligator jumper lead. Cut out a piece four by four inch square. fold it over lengthwise. Go to your service Power Circuit Breaker box and look for a tab used for a padlock, or anything on the metal cabinet protruding. Put the tin foil end around that protrusion, and secure it with the clip on one end of the jumper lead. Let the other end hang down. Now Listen to the sound of cleaner power.